Did the wiring modification.

Message

Viking · #1 Post by **Viking** » Tue May 01, 2007 7:30 am

Afternoon all,

I've been kicking around the idea of doing the wiring modification talked about on the AF1 forums for a while now. Finally, after a couple of flat batteries and some dodgy starts on cold mornings, I've done it.

It's not flash, by any stretch of the imagination, but it's made a hell of a difference. I measured the voltage across the battery as being 13.2V (and 13.4 at 4k RPM) before-hand. Now I'm getting 14.5V (and 14.6 at 4k RPM). Hopefully that will keep the battery fully charged now.

Sorry for the blurry picture - I was using the camera in my phone. The red wire runs from the battery's positive terminal to the positive output of the reg/rect unit (with a 30 Amp fuse in-line) whilst another cable runs from the battery's negative terminal to the negative output of the reg/rect.

Cheers,
Viking

(There may be something weird happening with the webserver where I've hosted the image. If so, just try hitting 'Reload'...)

Falcopops · #2 Post by **Falcopops** » Tue May 01, 2007 8:10 am

I've got all the bits I need to do this too and hoe to get round to it inthe next day or too.

I'm going down the stuff the wires into the original fuse, due to the 30A fuse in parallel issues.

How long did it take you?

Was it easy enough to do?

SkinnyPinny · #3 Post by **SkinnyPinny** » Tue May 01, 2007 1:04 pm

this is a really great mod, I've done it and I now have a fully charged battery all the time, never any hesitation when starting,
allow plenty of time as I found the original rectifier block connectors burnt to buggery, so they were replaced as well, I used individual connectors instead of a block connectors, its all I had at the time, skinny

Viking · #4 Post by **Viking** » Wed May 02, 2007 1:19 am

Falcopops wrote:I'm going down the stuff the wires into the original fuse, due to the 30A fuse in parallel issues.

Which issues are these? I haven't heard anything along these lines.

How long did it take you?
Was it easy enough to do?

It took me and a mate most of an afternoon to get the bits, take the plastics off then get it all installed and back togther again. But we were working at quite a relaxed pace, with a couple of coffee breaks along the way. If you're handy with tools and soldering irons, I expect you could get it done in a couple of hours.

The hardest part was getting the terminals back inside the connector blocks with the extra wires attached.

I checked the condition of all the connectors to the reg/rect and there was no sign of overheating - even the three big yellow wires.

sabestian · #5 Post by **sabestian** » Wed May 02, 2007 7:44 am

This is what I gathered. Hope it helps.

Falcopops · #6 Post by **Falcopops** » Wed May 02, 2007 9:39 am

Cheers Viking,

Viking wrote:Which issues are these? I haven't heard anything along these lines.

Something I read on the AF1 site. Sabestians link takes you to part of the discussion (wide mod for dummies).

Have a troll trhough the posts and there is a discussion on the merits of parallell fuses.

I'm going the old way and just bunging the new wires into the old fuse to avoid the issue. Probably a more fiddly install, removes the potential problem.

Viking · #7 Post by **Viking** » Thu May 03, 2007 1:20 am

Falcopops wrote:Cheers Viking,
Viking wrote:Which issues are these? I haven't heard anything along these lines.
(snip)
I'm going the old way and just bunging the new wires into the old fuse to avoid the issue. Probably a more fiddly install, removes the potential problem.

I decided that running a fatter wire directly from the reg/rect to the battery was a better option than trying to fiddle around with the stock wires and fuse block.

I still can't understand how Aprilia could skimp on such an important wire.

Falcopops · #8 Post by **Falcopops** » Thu May 03, 2007 8:27 am

Did mine last night, took about 2.5 hours a complete bas***d of a job. Should have used thinner wire, but went for as fat as I could squeeze in.

Not tested it yet 'coz I was doing other stuff too and I didn't finish 'till 2am.

Gtrain · #9 Post by **Gtrain** » Thu May 03, 2007 10:00 am

always wondered if anyone down here had done the wiring mod or need to do it, did think it might be just a northern hemisphere problem
as for myself (touch wood) I've never had a problem with mine and I can still leave it unattended for 3 weeks and starts no problems, Viking is your falco one with the headlights always on?

I'm tempted to check the wires, but while its not broken I'm going to leave it alone, don't want to tempt fate

Viking · #10 Post by **Viking** » Fri May 04, 2007 12:17 am

Gtrain wrote:Viking is your falco one with the headlights always on?

Nope, the headlights are controlled by the switch on the handlebar.

I've had a couple of flat batteries in the year I've owned it, and decided that the last one was the final straw...

I think it's caused by all the low-speed commuting I do - the alternator never gets run at high enough speed for long enough to charge the battery and over time the battery slowly goes flat.

I'm tempted to check the wires, but while its not broken I'm going to leave it alone, don't want to tempt fate

You realise now that it will start to play up, right?

Nooj · #11 Post by **Nooj** » Tue May 08, 2007 5:47 pm

I had a go at the wire mod over the weekend as well. With the ignition on the battery was reading 12v before, but afterwards it was giving me...12v. Maybe it'll make a difference when running? Didn't bother doing the brown connector as there was nothing wrong with it, no brittle or discoloured insulation, no evidence of over heating at all in fact.

sabestian · #12 Post by **sabestian** » Tue May 08, 2007 7:03 pm

Nooj, the wiring mod is meant to improve the charging (higher voltage). You need to start the engine to get any charging.

Nooj · #13 Post by **Nooj** » Tue May 08, 2007 9:11 pm

Oooh, ok. Time will tell then. I've got a few more things to tinker with before I take it for a run again.

Viking · #14 Post by **Viking** » Tue Jun 19, 2007 3:14 am

Just thought I'd give people an update on how the Falco is going with it's modified wiring.

It's great! I hadn't ridden the bike for a couple of weeks, and it's been parked out in the cold weather (under cover, though!). Last year, the battery was flat after being left for a couple of days in the cold.

But not this time! She fired up from cold within a couple of seconds.

D-Rider · #15 Post by **D-Rider** » Tue Jun 19, 2007 9:15 am

Just in case anyone wants to know a bit more about charging Lead-Acid batteries, this link is quite helpful. The main stuff of interest comes after the first picture. Bear in mind that the voltages mentioned are per cell - so multiply them by 6 for a Falco battery.
Battery Charging

It's clear that the 13.6v that Viking measured before the wiring mod isn't really enough to keep the battery charged and in good condition. The 14.6v measured after the mod is pushing on the upper end - particularly once the battery is fully charged. These things are always a compromise!

Sounds a good mod though.